Evangelists recruit new devotees in every plaza. Town and countryside are overrun by a property and land buying frenzy. People lament and stoke age-old political rivalries in the wake of regional elections and ahead of the general ones next year.
Maybe my mistake was to not realize that the ceremony itself could carry transformational powers.
Between February and June, José went around Lima trying to convince musicians from his favourite Peruvian psychedelic cumbia bands from the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s to come together as one and give new life to their percussive anthems.
It was almost six in the morning and the market in Capachica was already starting to bustle. People were slowly arriving, slinging large bags of produce or hauling carts of merchandise. It was drizzling and rainy season mud seemed to be caking up everything: tires, boots, dog hair. Our shared taxi van from Puno was parked on a side road, waiting for a few more passengers before continuing to Llachón.
The recommended route to Machu Picchu: by bus and on foot. Machu Picchu is beautiful. It takes your breath and stirs your mind. Anyone passing through Cusco should try going and even better if you’ve got the means and time for…
A last minute July 28 escape from Lima to Oxapampa for Peruvian Idependence Day.
One of the fascinating facts often mentioned about the Inca is that their constructions didn’t need mortar, that their walls stood without binding substance holding together the blocks. From contemporary inspection, it’s obvious that Inca masons succeeded in doing this by very precisely cutting stone in the shape needed to fit into the next layer they were building and its planned adjacent blocks. It meant that you not only had to plan the shape of your structure but also how each individual block would fit within it and sculpt it to measure.
Enveloped in your fog and smoke, your constant cry of horns, sirens and shouts, cradled in your hills and pressed back against your ocean cliffs, wandering and finding my rhythm amongst your million interminable streets, I have peaked at your smile, your dance and charm.
Christmas in Cusco made for a fantastic contrast to the months spent cursing the fog in Lima.
I happened upon this firefighting ambulance that had caught fire on my way home this afternoon. It looked like the flames had just begun to take over, with the melting insides cracking and exploding …
General restaurant food in Peru is ordinarily a lot duller than it’s made out to be and mostly revolves around rice, peeled white potatoes and saucy salty meat preparations. Those who search though will find
On the way back from Jorge Chávez flight port, another double length nocturnal trip through the capital, this time with a gregarious Marine ex commando two weeks from his retirement.
The mural reads…
I’ve been back from Cusco for two days. Summer in the capital is in full effect, the sun shines all day long through hazy blue skies and the beaches are packed.
It was in the middle of the pedestrian chaos that links La Mar and La Marina avenues that I met Mohammed, but I had to line-up.
With Christmas approaching, it’s time to blow stuff up!
…what happens when two wannabe carpenters shack up. I just moved to Barranco, a district on the southern edge of Lima where there is more life in the streets, public art on the walls…
End of semester and spring colours in Lima.