Shells and Currents

Shells and Currents

The last time I wrote, I had been on Vancouver Island for just over a month. The summer of surfing and serving that unfolded was incredible, a success on every level. In October I left, confident that I could once again uproot.

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Braids of Kelp

Braids of Kelp

Life lately has been entwined with letting go, grabbing on to and braiding again strands of attachment. Relocating is fundamentally a series of concrete steps but I'm still not used to the emotional segmentation that accompanies it. After finally submitting my thesis at the beginning of June, I had only a week planned in Stockholm to say goodbye to a place and to very dear people with whom I'd formed close bonds for the better part of three years. I felt like an asshole. Then I returned home for two weeks after nearly a year away, and finally I moved to Tofino on the west coast of Vancouver Island, with no connections or notions of anything.

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Half-open blinds

I'm still writing that essay. I can't wait to tell shorter stories with a simpler language. Today marks three years since I started this page and it's not going away anytime soon. See you hopefully on the way back out of the precipice.

I was never insane except upon occasions when my heart was touched – Edgar Allan Poe

On the far side of the mountain the silence is more tangible  Ingibjörg Haraldsdóttir

Cohesion Trade-Off

Cohesion Trade-Off

Hi! I am back in Stockholm and I am still writing my thesis. I had the best two-month return to the field I could have hoped for. Now I live again between library and residence surrounded by reddening autumn leaves. I find it difficult to keep up the blog when I'm so focused on writing academically, but I assure you that it's just a temporary absence.

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Iglesia El Rosario - San Salvador

I enjoyed a seven hour stopover in San Salvador on my flight away from Perú, a thrilling glimpse of the Salvadoran capital that left me conscious of how much I've yet to discover of Latin America. If you ever go through there and have time to kill, skip the taxis and take public bus 138 to and from the centre from the airport: it takes about 50 min each way and costs $0.60.

One of the highlights of these few hours of exploration was stumbling upon El Rosario church in Parque Libertad. Designed by architect and sculptor Rubén Martínez, it took seven years to build and its plans were directly approved by the Vatican after national ecclesiastic authorities turned down the initial proposal. Martínez wanted to build a church different from any other in the Americas. The filtering coloured light, the wide open circular space and the sculptural presence of Christ's life combine to create a serene place to cultivate thought, prayer and faith. Magnificent!

Horizon Chasing: Lago Titicaca

Horizon Chasing: Lago Titicaca

It was almost six in the morning and the market in Capachica was already starting to bustle. People were slowly arriving, slinging large bags of produce or hauling carts of merchandise. It was drizzling and rainy season mud seemed to be caking up everything: tires, boots, dog hair. Our shared taxi van from Puno was parked on a side road, waiting for a few more passengers before continuing to Llachón.

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¿Qué estás comiendo?

¿Qué estás comiendo?

What am I eating?

I try to embed mention of food into my travel posts but since I happen to have a number of past restaurant colleagues with short attention spans, I have to give them a proper food post once in a while as a carrot for them to keep visiting.

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Making Dust From Air - Back to America (2)

Making Dust From Air - Back to America (2)

I'm spending tonight at Guarulhos, São Paulo's austere and grimy ciment palace of an airport. I'm sleeping here because I rather wait until 5h45 to take a 4 reales bus (1 real = approx US $0.50) and 3.50 RS subway into town than pay the 100 RS it would cost to taxi to my friend Marcelo's place. I should have arrived around 17h30 but our original flight from Amsterdam experienced a technical failure of its motor de-icing systems...

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