The last time I wrote, I had been on Vancouver Island for just over a month. The summer of surfing and serving that unfolded was incredible, a success on every level. In October I left, confident that I could once again uproot.Read More
An escape out to an island in the open ocean serves as a reminder that time flows through this land in different ways. Here it's often the feeling of what you don't see that moves you most.
Life lately has been entwined with letting go, grabbing on to and braiding again strands of attachment. Relocating is fundamentally a series of concrete steps but I'm still not used to the emotional segmentation that accompanies it. After finally submitting my thesis at the beginning of June, I had only a week planned in Stockholm to say goodbye to a place and to very dear people with whom I'd formed close bonds for the better part of three years. I felt like an asshole. Then I returned home for two weeks after nearly a year away, and finally I moved to Tofino on the west coast of Vancouver Island, with no connections or notions of anything.Read More
I'm still writing that essay. I can't wait to tell shorter stories with a simpler language. Today marks three years since I started this page and it's not going away anytime soon. See you hopefully on the way back out of the precipice.
I was never insane except upon occasions when my heart was touched – Edgar Allan Poe
On the far side of the mountain the silence is more tangible – Ingibjörg Haraldsdóttir
One Sunday morning, I received a text message from a friend asking me if I wanted to attend a Persian wedding party that evening. It turned out to be a Kurdish engagement celebration.Read More
It's nearly 22h on this Monday, December 31st of 2012. We're five people from four different countries sitting around a table in a big open flat in Krakow, planning the night ahead. I wanted to share photographs from the nazi concentration camps at Auschwitz (a germanization of the Polish town name Oświęcim) that I visited today.Read More
I got to do a five-day workshop with David Alan Harvey in 2009. It transformed my approach to photography of course, but I could have never anticipated how powerful its effects continue to be three years onwards.Read More
Hi! I am back in Stockholm and I am still writing my thesis. I had the best two-month return to the field I could have hoped for. Now I live again between library and residence surrounded by reddening autumn leaves. I find it difficult to keep up the blog when I'm so focused on writing academically, but I assure you that it's just a temporary absence.Read More
I enjoyed a seven hour stopover in San Salvador on my flight away from Perú, a thrilling glimpse of the Salvadoran capital that left me conscious of how much I've yet to discover of Latin America. If you ever go through there and have time to kill, skip the taxis and take public bus 138 to and from the centre from the airport: it takes about 50 min each way and costs $0.60.
One of the highlights of these few hours of exploration was stumbling upon El Rosario church in Parque Libertad. Designed by architect and sculptor Rubén Martínez, it took seven years to build and its plans were directly approved by the Vatican after national ecclesiastic authorities turned down the initial proposal. Martínez wanted to build a church different from any other in the Americas. The filtering coloured light, the wide open circular space and the sculptural presence of Christ's life combine to create a serene place to cultivate thought, prayer and faith. Magnificent!
Between February and June, José went around Lima trying to convince musicians from his favourite Peruvian psychedelic cumbia bands from the 60's, 70's and 80's to come together as one and give new life to their percussive anthems.Read More
It was almost six in the morning and the market in Capachica was already starting to bustle. People were slowly arriving, slinging large bags of produce or hauling carts of merchandise. It was drizzling and rainy season mud seemed to be caking up everything: tires, boots, dog hair. Our shared taxi van from Puno was parked on a side road, waiting for a few more passengers before continuing to Llachón.Read More
The recommended route to Machu Picchu: by bus and on foot. Machu Picchu is beautiful. It takes your breath and stirs your mind. Anyone passing through Cusco should try going and even better if you've got the means and time for...Read More
A last minute July 28 escape from Lima to Oxapampa for Peruvian Idependence Day.Read More
Here you have it, the logistical summary table of my transcontinental bus travels in South America in the last year. In two trips, I covered almost 12,000 kilometers of road over a total of more than 220 hours.Read More
I never expected that the most happening thing I'd find in La Paz on a Saturday afternoon would be a full-blown K-Pop (Korean pop) dance competition.Read More
What am I eating?
I try to embed mention of food into my travel posts but since I happen to have a number of past restaurant colleagues with short attention spans, I have to give them a proper food post once in a while as a carrot for them to keep visiting.Read More
To the west, long white salt flats and over snowy peaks, Chile. North, across the barren expanse, the Bolivian altiplano. To the South, majestic Mt. Chañi of Jujuy province in Argentina. And east, an enormous nearly full moon just rising over the hills.Read More
Yesterday was my first full day in Buenos Aires and it coincided with an enormous country-wide call to protest by the socialist Left. More than a hundred thousand people congregated...Read More
Were it summer, I would have stopped in Florianopolis for its unique beach landscapes, but on Marcelo's recommendation I opted to make Porto Alegre my last stop in Brazil on the road south.Read More
I'm spending tonight at Guarulhos, São Paulo's austere and grimy ciment palace of an airport. I'm sleeping here because I rather wait until 5h45 to take a 4 reales bus (1 real = approx US $0.50) and 3.50 RS subway into town than pay the 100 RS it would cost to taxi to my friend Marcelo's place. I should have arrived around 17h30 but our original flight from Amsterdam experienced a technical failure of its motor de-icing systems...Read More